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Metolius Ultralight Master Cam

9.1
Excellent
From Varies by size ($50-$80 per unit typical)
language

description Metolius Ultralight Master Cam Overview

The Metolius Ultralight Master Cam is a favorite among trad climbers for its compact head width and flexible stem. These cams are perfect for thin cracks where space is limited. The range is excellent, and the thumb loop is easy to manipulate even with gloves on. They are significantly lighter than many competitors, making them ideal for long approaches or weight-conscious alpine racks.

The color-coding matches the industry standard, ensuring quick and safe gear placement when you are pumped and hanging on a thin edge.

recommend Best for: Trad climbers seeking lightweight, narrow-profile protection for thin cracks andpin scars on multi-pitch routes where every gram matters.

info Metolius Ultralight Master Cam Specifications

balance Metolius Ultralight Master Cam Pros & Cons

thumb_up Pros
  • check Compact head width specifically designed for thin cracks where other cams fail
  • check Ultralight construction reduces weight on long trad routes without sacrificing functional strength
  • check Flexible stem conforms to irregular rock geometry for secure placements
  • check Thumb loop design allows easy one-handed manipulation even when wearing thick gloves
  • check Excellent range per unit covers multiple crack widths efficiently
  • check Durable Trigger wire and updated cable design improve longevity over previous versions
thumb_down Cons
  • close Lighter weight construction may reduce long-term durability under heavy repeated use
  • close Not ideal for wide cracks as the range focuses on smaller sizes
  • close Premium pricing compared to some competing cam brands
  • close Flexible stem, while useful, can be more difficult to place precisely in certain situations
  • close Limited availability of the smallest sizes in some retail locations

help Metolius Ultralight Master Cam FAQ

What size range does the Metolius Ultralight Master Cam cover?

The Master Cam series covers sizes from #0 (smallest) up to #6 (largest). Each unit covers a specific range, with the Ultralight version optimized for smaller cracks. Sizes typically range from 13mm to around 50mm depending on the specific unit.

How does the Metolius Master Cam compare to Black Diamond Camalots?

Master Cams feature a narrower head width than Camalots, making them better for pin scars and shallow placements. They also use a trigger wire system versus the double axle design of Camalots, resulting in a lighter weight but slightly different camming angle.

What is the weight savings compared to standard cams?

The Ultralight Master Cams weigh approximately 20-30% less than their standard counterparts, with individual units ranging from about 85g for smaller sizes to 150g for larger sizes. This weight reduction adds up significantly on multi-pitch routes.

Is the flexible stem durable enough for all-day climbing?

The flexible U-channel stem is designed to flex under load rather than bend permanently. Most users report excellent durability for hundreds of placements, though the stem may show cosmetic wear over time. It's rated to the same 10kN strength as rigid stems.

Can these cams be used for aid climbing?

While primarily designed for free climbing protection, the Master Cams can be used in aid climbing for nut-like placements. However, dedicated aid climbing cam hooks may offer better durability for repeated hook placements.

What is Metolius Ultralight Master Cam?
The Metolius Ultralight Master Cam is a favorite among trad climbers for its compact head width and flexible stem. These cams are perfect for thin cracks where space is limited. The range is excellent, and the thumb loop is easy to manipulate even with gloves on. They are significantly lighter than many competitors, making them ideal for long approaches or weight-conscious alpine racks. The color-coding matches the industry standard, ensuring quick and safe gear placement when you are pumped and hanging on a thin edge.
How good is Metolius Ultralight Master Cam?
Metolius Ultralight Master Cam scores 9.1/10 (Excellent) on Lunoo, making it one of the highest-rated options in the Climbing Gear category. The 9.1/10 score reflects the Master Cam's exceptional performance in its intended niche of thin crack climbing, where its compact head and lightweigh...
How much does Metolius Ultralight Master Cam cost?
From Varies by size ($50-$80 per unit typical). Visit the official website for the most up-to-date pricing.
What are the best alternatives to Metolius Ultralight Master Cam?
What is Metolius Ultralight Master Cam best for?

Trad climbers seeking lightweight, narrow-profile protection for thin cracks andpin scars on multi-pitch routes where every gram matters.

How does Metolius Ultralight Master Cam compare to Wild Country Friend?
See our detailed comparison of Metolius Ultralight Master Cam vs Wild Country Friend with scores, features, and an AI-powered verdict.
Is Metolius Ultralight Master Cam worth it in 2026?
With a score of 9.1/10, Metolius Ultralight Master Cam is highly rated in Climbing Gear. See all Climbing Gear ranked.
What are the key specifications of Metolius Ultralight Master Cam?
  • Range: 13mm to 51mm depending on size
  • Material: 6061-T6 aluminum lobes, stainless steel cable
  • Cam Angle: Standard 13.75° per lobe
  • Stem Type: Flexible U-channel aluminum
  • Head Width: Narrow profile for thin cracks
  • Thumb Loop: Integrated nylon loop for one-handed operation

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