description Colton-MacIntyre Overview
The Colton-MacIntyre is a challenging ice climb located on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses in France. First completed in 1976, this route is notable for its prolonged sections of sustained, technical ice climbing. It’s considered an Edgeworth plus level difficulty and is suitable for experienced alpinists seeking demanding alpine objectives within the French Alps.
insights Ranking position
Colton-MacIntyre ranks #27 of 358 in the Climbing Route ranking, behind Fish Eye, ahead of Eiger Nordwand 1938 Route.
help Colton-MacIntyre FAQ
Who made the first ascent of the Colton-MacIntyre route?
British climbers Nick Colton and Alex MacIntyre completed the route in August 1976. Their lightweight ascent helped establish it as a landmark of alpine-style climbing on the Grandes Jorasses.
How difficult is the Colton-MacIntyre?
Modern descriptions commonly place it around ED2 or ED3, with ice up to WI6 and mixed climbing around M6 depending on conditions. The route is roughly 1,200 meters long and includes steep, difficult-to-protect sections.
Is the Colton-MacIntyre mainly climbed in summer or winter?
Although the first ascent occurred in summer, the route is now primarily regarded as a winter mixed and ice objective. Conditions strongly affect ice formation, rockfall exposure, protection, and the feasibility of retreat.
Does the modern Colton-MacIntyre follow the exact original line?
Many parties use the Alexis variation through part of the central section because it is more often formed. The original route continues more directly toward the Walker Spur and is generally considered harder.
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