description Monkey Face Pioneer Route Overview
The Pioneer Route is a climbing route on Monkey Face, a prominent rock spire located in Smith Rock State Park, Oregon. It is the standard route to the summit of the formation and involves a mix of bolted face climbing and aid climbing. Climbers typically use a pendulum to reach the final summit pitches, which include an exposed exit from a cave. It is a well-known objective for climbers visiting the high desert region of central Oregon.
help Monkey Face Pioneer Route FAQ
Where is the Monkey Face Pioneer Route located?
The Pioneer Route is located on Monkey Face, a massive and prominent rock spire situated in Smith Rock State Park, Oregon. Smith Rock is widely considered the birthplace of modern American sport climbing.
What is the difficulty of the Pioneer Route on Monkey Face?
The route is rated around 5.8 to 5.9 for the free climbing sections, but it requires a few points of aid to reach the top. Because of this mix, it is considered a classic introductory aid-climbing route.
What is the 'pendulum' on the Monkey Face Pioneer Route?
To reach the summit, climbers must perform a dramatic pendulum swing across a gap known as the 'Eye of the Needle.' This involves swinging on a rope to bypass an impossible section of rock before continuing upward.
Do you need a special permit to climb the Monkey Face Pioneer Route?
No permit is required to climb the Pioneer Route, though visitors must pay the daily entrance fee for Smith Rock State Park. However, climbers should be experienced with traditional gear and basic aid techniques before attempting it.
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