description The Phoenix Overview
The Phoenix is a short, exceptionally difficult crack climb near Cascade Falls in Yosemite Valley, California. Ray Jardine made the first free ascent in 1977, and the route is commonly graded 5.13a, making it an important benchmark in the development of hard free climbing in the United States. Its steep, continuous finger crack demands precise jamming, strong footwork and sustained power from climbers already proficient on difficult granite cracks.
help The Phoenix FAQ
Where is the famous climbing route called The Phoenix?
The historically important Phoenix is a crack climb in Yosemite Valley, California, not a Smith Rock sport route. It is located near Cascade Creek and is known for steep, technically demanding jamming.
Why is The Phoenix important in climbing history?
Ray Jardine made the first free ascent in 1977, and the climb became widely recognized as an early benchmark at 5.13a. It helped demonstrate how far specialized crack technique and training were pushing free climbing.
What type of climbing does The Phoenix require?
The crux is a steep, thin crack that demands precise finger locks, powerful movement, and effective footwork. Protection is placed with traditional gear rather than preinstalled sport-climbing bolts.
How does The Phoenix differ from Smith Rock's early sport routes?
The Phoenix is a Yosemite crack protected with removable gear. Smith Rock became central to American sport-climbing history through bolted face routes such as Chain Reaction and later To Bolt or Not to Be.
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