description Necessary Evil Overview
Necessary Evil represents a significant achievement in American sport climbing. This 5.14c route, located within the Virgin River Gorge of Arizona, gained notoriety as the first confirmed grade-five climb in the United States upon its creation in 1993. It remains a challenging and historically important test for experienced climbers seeking to push their limits. The route is particularly relevant for advanced sport climbers with strong technical skills.
insights Ranking position
Necessary Evil ranks #63 of 358 in the Climbing Route ranking, behind Freerider, ahead of Chouca.
help Necessary Evil FAQ
Who made the first ascent of Necessary Evil?
Chris Sharma made the first ascent of Necessary Evil in 1997. He was still a teenager, and the climb became a landmark in the rapid progression of American sport climbing.
Where exactly is Necessary Evil located?
Necessary Evil is in the Virgin River Gorge, a steep limestone climbing area along Interstate 15 in northwestern Arizona. The gorge is also known for hard routes such as Route of All Evil and The Present.
What grade is Necessary Evil?
Necessary Evil is generally graded 5.14c, equivalent to French 8c+. At the time of Sharma's ascent, it was regarded as the hardest established sport route in the United States.
What climbing style does Necessary Evil demand?
The route demands sustained power and endurance on steep limestone rather than a single isolated trick. Its small holds, difficult sequences and limited recovery opportunities make it a major test even for climbers comfortable on other 5.14 routes.
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