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El Nino - Climbing Route
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El Nino

description El Nino Overview

El Nino presents a significant challenge within Yosemite’s El Capitan granite. This free climbing route is particularly noted for its demanding technical difficulties and lengthy pitches. It was first completed in 1998 by Leo Houlding, representing a substantial accomplishment. The route is suitable for experienced big wall climbers seeking a difficult and rewarding free ascent, typically those with advanced technical skills and extensive wall-climbing experience.

help El Nino FAQ

Who established El Nino on El Capitan?

Alexander and Thomas Huber established and redpointed El Nino in 1998. Their line combined existing terrain with new variations across the steep southeast face and North America Wall area.

Is El Nino completely free-climbable?

The original line was graded around 5.13c with an unusual aid maneuver called the Man-Powered Rappel. Later variations sought to bypass that section, so climbers must distinguish the original route from fully free alternatives.

How long is the El Nino route?

The Huber brothers described it as a journey of roughly 30 pitches. It includes named features such as the Endurance Corner, Black Cave, and Dolphin chimney.

How does El Nino differ from the Dawn Wall?

Both tackle El Capitan's southeast face, but they follow different systems and have different histories. Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson completed the Dawn Wall's first free ascent in 2015, years after the Hubers established El Nino.

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