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Harlin Direct

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description Harlin Direct Overview

The Harlin Direct is a demanding alpine climbing route situated on the north face of the Eiger mountain in the Swiss Alps. It gained notoriety as the final climb undertaken by renowned American mountaineer John Harlin before his death. The route’s steepness and historical significance make it a challenging objective primarily for experienced alpinists seeking to test their skills and honor Harlin's legacy.

help Harlin Direct FAQ

What is the Harlin Direct route on the Eiger?

The Harlin Direct is a climbing route that takes a direct line up the north face of the Eiger in the Bernese Alps of Switzerland. It is named after American mountaineer John Harlin, who died attempting to establish the line in 1966.

Who completed the first ascent of the Harlin Direct?

The route was completed in 1966 by a multinational team that included Dougal Haston and Layton Kor, who pushed the line to the summit after Harlin was killed when his fixed rope broke. The ascent was made in honor of Harlin and the route bears his name.

How difficult is the Harlin Direct compared to other Eiger north face routes?

The Harlin Direct is considered one of the most serious routes on the Eiger's north face, with sustained technical climbing on mixed ice and rock terrain. It is significantly more direct and committing than the classic 1938 Heckmair Route.

Has the Harlin Direct been repeated in modern times?

Yes, the Harlin Direct has seen a number of repeat ascents since 1966, though it remains a serious undertaking with significant objective hazards. Modern ascents have benefited from improved equipment but the route's steepness and exposure remain unchanged.

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