description Watts Tots Overview
Watts Tots is a historic sport climbing route situated in Smith Rock State Park, Oregon. Established in the 1980s by climbing pioneer Alan Watts, the route was a crucial testing ground during the development of modern sport climbing in the United States. Graded at 5.13d or 5.14a, the climb is known for its technical difficulty and powerful movements on steep, volcanic tuff. It continues to serve as an aspirational testpiece for elite climbers pushing into high grades.
help Watts Tots FAQ
What is Watts Tots at Smith Rock?
Watts Tots is a historic sport climbing route at Smith Rock State Park in Oregon. It was established by climbing pioneer Alan Watts during the development of modern American sport climbing.
How hard is Watts Tots?
It is generally listed around 5.13d to 5.14a, depending on the guide and rating convention. Climbers should expect sustained, highly technical movement rather than a beginner-friendly Smith Rock route.
Is Watts Tots a sport or traditional climb?
Watts Tots is a sport route, meaning fixed protection is used rather than placing all protection by hand. Climbers still need strong rope skills, route-reading ability, and knowledge of Smith Rock's exposed volcanic terrain.
Why is Watts Tots historically important?
The route is linked to Alan Watts and the early growth of difficult sport climbing in the United States. Smith Rock became a major testing ground for the hard, bolt-protected climbing style that spread during the 1980s.
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