description Greenspit Overview
Greenspit is a challenging trad climbing route located in Valle Orco, Italy. It’s notable for its sustained, technical 8b crack climbing and was originally established by Dani Andrada. The route demands significant physical strength and experience with traditional climbing techniques. Greenspit is primarily suited for advanced climbers comfortable with demanding crack climbs and exposed positions.
insights Why this score
Greenspit ranks #91 of 368 in the Climbing Route ranking, behind Return of the Sleepwalker, ahead of Welcome to Tijuana.
help Greenspit FAQ
Why is Greenspit considered a landmark trad climb?
Greenspit follows a roughly 12-meter crack across the underside of a large roof in Italy's Valle dell'Orco. Didier Berthod's ascent helped establish hard roof-crack climbing on traditional protection as a distinct elite challenge.
Was Greenspit climbed with the gear already placed?
Berthod first completed the line in 2003 with protection preplaced, often described as a pinkpoint. He returned in 2005 and climbed it while placing the required protection during the ascent.
What grade is Greenspit?
It is usually reported as 8b or 8b+, depending on the source and grading consensus. The difficulty comes from sustained inverted crack movement, powerful jams, and placing protection while hanging beneath the roof.
Why do climbers associate Greenspit with the film First Ascent?
Berthod's attempts and climbing appeared in the 2006 film First Ascent, bringing the route to a much wider audience. The footage helped turn its striking horizontal crack into an icon of modern trad climbing.
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