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Lurking Fear - Climbing Route
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Lurking Fear

description Lurking Fear Overview

Lurking Fear is a big wall climbing route on the west face of El Capitan in Yosemite Valley, California. It was first ascended in October 1970 by a team led by Jim Madsen, who died in a separate accident on the route's final day, along with Kim Schmitz, Mike Covington, and Bill Westbay. The route follows a system of cracks and dihedrals for approximately thirty pitches and is rated 5.7 C2 or 5.7 A2 in aid, with several free variations since developed. It is considered one of the more accessible big wall routes on El Capitan and is commonly attempted by climbers transitioning to longer aid routes.

help Lurking Fear FAQ

What grade is Lurking Fear?

The route is commonly listed around 5.7 C2 with an overall Grade VI commitment. The free climbing is not the only difficulty, because hauling, aid placements, route-finding, and managing a multi-day wall ascent are central parts of the challenge.

Who made the first ascent of Lurking Fear?

Climbing-history records generally identify Dave Bircheff, Phil Bircheff, and Jim Pettigrew as the first-ascent team in 1976. Tommy Caldwell and Beth Rodden later made the first free ascent in 2000.

Is Lurking Fear a free-climbing route or an aid route?

It is historically an aid route, using gear and specialized placements to move through sections that are not climbed entirely free. Caldwell and Rodden's 2000 free ascent was a separate milestone that demonstrated the route's much higher free-climbing difficulty.

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