Chitose Abe

Chitose Abe's signature splicing technique involves structurally combining two distinct garments into a single hybrid piece—for example, merging a bomber jacket silhouette with a tailored blazer or a knit sweater with a cotton dress. This approach creates unexpected silhouettes that reference multiple clothing archetypes simultaneously. The technique has become Sacai's defining design language since the label's founding in 1999.

Chitose Abe worked for eight years at Comme des Garçons under Rei Kawakubo, followed by time working with Junya Watanabe on his own label. This experience at one of Japan's most influential fashion houses deeply shaped her approach to deconstruction and pattern-cutting. She founded Sacai in Tokyo in 1999, initially focusing on knitwear.

Sacai has collaborated with Nike on multiple acclaimed sneaker releases, most notably the LDV Waffle and Vaporwaffle, which splice together elements of different Nike running shoes into a single double-tongued, double-soled hybrid. The Nike Sacai LDV Waffle debuted in 2019 and became one of the most sought-after sneaker releases of that year. The collaboration exemplifies Abe's splicing philosophy applied to footwear.

Sacai presented its first runway show at Paris Fashion Week in 2009, marking the label's transition from a Tokyo-based niche brand to an international luxury presence. The Paris shows helped establish Abe's reputation among global critics and buyers. In 2021, Sacai became a guest member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, presenting haute couture collections.